Key Takeaways:
Winterizing your RV is an important part of preparing it for cold-weather storage. Freezing temperatures can damage water lines, fittings, valves, tanks, and appliances, sometimes without any visible sign of trouble until spring.
The good news is that winterizing is a straightforward, repeatable process once you know what to check. This checklist walks you through the major steps, from protecting the water system to preparing the interior and exterior for storage.
Download the RV Winterizing Checklist and use it as your step-by-step guide before storing your RV for the season.
Winterize before freezing weather is expected in your area. As a practical rule, don't wait until temperatures are regularly approaching or dropping below 32°F. A single unexpected freeze can damage plumbing that still contains water.
If you're in a northern climate, that window often falls in October or early November. In milder regions, you may have until December or later. If you plan to use your RV intermittently through winter, you may need to winterize it between trips whenever freezing temperatures are expected.
Winterizing the water system means removing as much water as possible and protecting the plumbing from freezing. The two common approaches are the compressed-air method and the RV-antifreeze method. Some RV owners use compressed air first and then add RV antifreeze to the plumbing and traps for additional protection.
Because plumbing layouts vary considerably between RVs, always follow your RV manufacturer's winterization procedure as the final authority.
Here’s the general process:
Use only RV water-system antifreeze intended for use in potable-water plumbing. Never use automotive antifreeze in the RV's water system.
If your RV manufacturer's procedure specifies putting antifreeze into the fresh-water tank, follow that procedure. Otherwise, most winterization setups use a pump bypass or winterization hose to draw antifreeze directly into the plumbing rather than filling the fresh-water tank.
Add RV antifreeze to the P-traps under sinks and showers to protect the water that remains in those traps. This is important even when using the compressed-air method because the traps are designed to retain water.
Follow the antifreeze manufacturer's instructions for the appropriate amount. Your RV may also require antifreeze in the toilet, washer, ice maker, dishwasher, or other water-using appliances. Consult the appliance and RV owner's manuals for model-specific procedures.
Beyond draining and bypassing the water heater, take a few minutes to protect appliances that use or retain water.
Remove any inline water filters and store them according to the manufacturer's instructions so they don't freeze and split. If your RV has a washing machine, ice maker, dishwasher, or other water-using appliance, consult its owner's manual for winterization instructions.
Empty and clean the refrigerator, then prop the doors open if recommended by the refrigerator manufacturer. This allows air circulation and can help prevent odors and moisture buildup during storage.
Cold temperatures can reduce battery performance, while prolonged discharge can damage some battery types. A charged battery resists freezing far better than a depleted one.
You have two solid options.
The correct storage procedure depends on the battery chemistry and manufacturer, so follow the battery manufacturer's recommendations rather than using one procedure for every RV.
If your RV stays connected to reliable shore power during storage, maintaining a low indoor temperature with a compatible thermostat can provide an additional layer of protection against freezing temperatures.
A thermostat set to maintain a minimum indoor temperature can activate the furnace when the interior temperature falls below the selected setpoint. This can help protect plumbing and other components located within the heated portion of the RV.
The EasyTouch™ RV Thermostat Replacement is well suited to this because it can control compatible RV HVAC systems with gas furnaces, in addition to air conditioning and other supported heating modes. Its built-in Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connectivity also let you adjust that setpoint from your phone, so you can raise or lower the furnace temperature without a trip to the storage lot.
For RV owners who keep their rig powered during storage, remote temperature control can make it easier to monitor and adjust the thermostat without visiting the storage location.
However, a thermostat should be considered an additional layer of protection, not a replacement for winterizing the water system. A power outage, furnace failure, thermostat problem, or plumbing located outside the heated area could still leave water exposed to freezing temperatures.
Learn more about the EasyTouch RV Thermostat Replacement.
Mice and insects look for warm shelter in winter, and a stored RV is an easy target. Seal every gap where a pest could enter, including around plumbing penetrations, wiring pass-throughs, and other openings in the RV's exterior. Use appropriate pest-resistant materials, such as steel wool or suitable sealant, depending on the size and location of the opening.
Address moisture at the same time. Trapped humidity leads to mildew and soft spots over a long storage stretch. Place moisture absorbers throughout the interior if appropriate for your storage environment. If your RV has roof vents and vent covers designed for ventilation during storage, follow the vent and cover manufacturer's recommendations for ventilation. Make sure the RV is clean and dry before closing it up.
Round out your winterizing with a quick exterior pass:
Work through this list the same way you did the water system, top to bottom, and nothing slips through the cracks.
Winterizing your RV comes down to protecting the systems that cold weather punishes most: your plumbing, your battery, and the interior itself. Drain and protect the water lines, bypass the water heater, guard the P-traps, maintain the battery, and seal the rig against pests and moisture, and you’ll help reduce the risk of springtime repairs for the season ahead.
Micro-Air has been engineering power management and temperature control technology since 1983, with every product manufactured, tested, and supported in the USA. If you keep your RV powered through storage and want reliable furnace control to help hold a safe minimum temperature, the EasyTouch RV thermostat replacement gives you precise command over both your furnace and AC from a single interface. Explore the EasyTouch RV to see how it fits your rig.
Note: This article is for informational purposes only; Micro-Air does not make recommendations or provide support outside of Micro-Air products.
Doing it yourself typically costs the price of a few gallons of non-toxic RV antifreeze, plus a water-heater bypass kit or blow-out plug if you don't already have them. That’s a small fraction of what a single cracked-line repair costs, which is why most owners handle it themselves.
No. Only use non-toxic RV antifreeze rated for potable water systems. Automotive antifreeze is toxic and must never enter an RV’s plumbing.
For most owners, a full winterization takes one to two hours once you’ve done it a time or two. Your first time may take longer as you locate low-point drains, the water heater bypass, and your fixtures.
If indoor storage stays reliably above freezing, you may be able to skip the water-system steps, but many indoor spaces are unheated. If there’s any chance of a freeze, winterize the plumbing to be safe.
Yes. The antifreeze method can protect your plumbing without compressed air when performed correctly according to the RV and antifreeze manufacturer's instructions. Compressed air simply clears standing water first so you use less antifreeze. Many owners rely on antifreeze only.
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